Posturing (published by SPBH Editions) celebrates aesthetic oddness, and in the process questions the essential function and meaning of a fashion image. It is a style of photography that rejects the hyper-sexualised body and celebrity-driven, glamour-obsessed vision of fashion that in the 2000s glorified naked consumerism. One that is changing traditional ideas of clothing, casting and images, as well as recontextualising what the body means to fashion, and what fashion can mean to the body. Posturing is a record of that change and this new movement, capturing the voices and visions of those most integral to creating it.
This conversation led by Hay and Marshall explores how these voices and visions are changing traditional ideas of clothing, casting and images, as well as recontextualising what the body means to fashion, and what fashion can mean to the body. The two are joined by Cally Blackman and Bruno Ceschel and photographer Pascal Gambarte.
Cally Blackman is the author of 100 Years of Fashion Illustration, 100 Years of Menswear, and 100 Years of Fashion, and co-author of Portrait of Fashion for the National Portrait Gallery. She has contributed chapters to exhibition catalogues for the V&A and Palais Galliera, written for Acne Paper, broadcast on BBC Radio 4, and delivered papers at numerous conferences.
Bruno Ceschel is a writer, publisher, lecturer and founder of Self Publish, Be Happy, an organisation that collects, studies, and celebrates self-published photobooks. Ceschel is also the Director of SPBH Editions, which has published books by Adam Broomberg and Oliver Chanarin, Lucas Blalock, Mariah Robertson and Lorenzo Vitturi.
Holly Hay is photographic director at Wallpaper*. She was part of the founding team at Garage, and later worked as picture editor at AnOther. Known for supporting new talent, Hay commissioned shoots with most of the photographers featured in this book early in their careers.
Shonagh Marshall is an independent curator. She previously worked at Somerset House where she curated Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!, Utopian Voices, Here and Now, and Hair by Sam McKnight. Her curatorial approach is centred on the role of fashion within contemporary culture and demystifying the process behind image-making.
Pascal Gambarte is a photographer whose portraits have shaped the aesthetic of leading art print publications including Marfa Journal, Dust and Muse. He first came to the attention with his unusual, gothic approach to early shoots, such as his 2015 portraits of Hustler publisher Larry Flynt at home in Hollywood.
Posturing includes photographs by Andrea Artemisio, Bibi Cornejo Borthwick, Blommers & Schumm, Brianna Capozzi, Casper Sejersen, Charlie Engman, Charlotte Wales, Coco Capitán, Estelle Hanania, Hanna Moon, Johnny Dufort, Joyce Ng, Lena C. Emery, Mark Peckmezian, Marton Perlaki, Pascal Gambarte, Reto Schmid, Suffo Moncloa, Tim Elkaïm, Tyrone Lebon, and Zoë Ghertner.
£8/£5 members & concessions. Ticket holders are able to access the gallery exhibitions on the same day.